Glamour magazine’s feature ‘Are current spot treatments taking into account the needs of women of colour?’ includes expert advice from Dr Barbara Kubicka, founder of Clinicbe Skin of Colour.
The article explores how skin tone needs to be considered when it comes to treating acne, and why a different approach may be required for those with darker skin.
The article states:
“…structure of deeper skin tones differs from that of lighter skin tones and it’s clear that a one-size-fits-all approach simply doesn’t work.”
In fact, using the wrong acne products could be counterproductive as aggressive ingredients designed for lighter skin tones could increase the risk of pigmentation problems in patients with skin of colour.
Dija Ayodele, founder of the Black Skin Directory, told Glamour:
“Acne is indiscriminate and can affect anyone, however on darker skin tones the resulting hyperpigmentation is a key issue and more noticeable. This can cause a lot of distress.”
Glamour magazine sought the input of Dr Barbara Kubicka, who explained that patients with skin of colour experience additional concerns when their skin is prone to acne:
“…because darker skin is naturally thicker, pimples can be more visible and larger in size.
“The thicker epidermal layer of skin can cause more folliculitis.”
Folliculitis is a condition which is whereby the hair follicles become inflamed and form whiteheads and pimples around the hair follicle.
Another common concern is Post Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH), which is discolouration of the skin after infection or wounding. This affects those with skin of colour more than other patients due to the larger melanocytes which produce higher levels of melanin.
Acne Skincare Ingredients for Skin of Colour
Aggressive ingredients such as retinol, benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid are commonly used in acne skincare, but their use needs to be considered very carefully for those whose skin has higher levels of pigmentation.
Dr Barbara Kubicka explained:
“All ingredients that irritate skin should be used with caution.
“For example, salicylic acid in low concentration is helpful to treat acne but higher doses can burn skin causing PIH. The same applies to all acids like glycolic and mandelic, as well as retinol and benzoyl peroxide (which is frequently used for acne).
“None of them should be used during the day when you’re exposed to the sun.”
However, where skin has been damaged with pigmentation and/or acne scarring, there are treatments that can help, both in terms of what the client can do at home and professional treatments in clinic. Dr Kubicka explained:
“gentle regular exfoliation, retinol and pigment control substances like azelaic acid, arbutin or even hydroquinone and sun protection.
“In clinic treatments such as peels will also help to fade dark fast as they speed up exfoliation of underperforming, dull and uneven skin cells.”
Preventing and Treating Acne
Dr Kubicka’s final advice for patients with skin of colour:
“The most important thing is to prevent the formation of severe stages of acne as it’s easier to prevent than treat the complications such as scarring.”
Dija Ayodele added:
“Calming inflammation quickly helps the skin to heal and recover quickly which is a very important control aspect. If skin is oily, controlling oil to avoid clogging in the pores is crucial. All of these elements are enhanced by in-clinic skin rejuvenation treatments such as chemical peeling, vitamin A Infusions, LED light therapy and laser.”
Dr Kubicka concluded:
“…otherwise oral antibiotics or even oral retinoids have to be considered.”
Acne Treatments at Clinicbe Skin of Colour
Clinicbe Skin of Colour offers a range of acne treatments which Dr Kubicka has adjusted, designed and tailored for clients who struggle with spots and also have skin of colour.
- Gentle Peels for exfoliation
- Microdermabrasion mechanical exfoliation
- Dermapen microneedling
- Professional Skincare for a daily at-home regime
- Mesotherapy injections to stimulate the skin’s recovery
- PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma) uses the body’s own rich resources
- Growth Factor Serum to promote better circulation and antioxidant activity, higher cellular regeneration, more radiant skin
- Plasma Shower to effectively destroy acne bacteria and promote healing and skin regeneration.
- Photo Shower using IPL (intense pulsed light treatment) to treat dark and uneven coloured skin
- Acnelan intensive medical skin treatment involving peels and homecare
- Obagi cosmeceutical skincare range for acne sufferers
- Circadia Skincare innovative skincare formulations
- Supplements tackling deficiencies for better skin
Clinicbe Skin of Colour
Clinicbe Skin of Colour offers a range of services for clients with skin of colour, including skin treatments, acne and hair loss. Pigmentation problems are a particular specialism for Dr Barbara Kubicka. The clinic is based in Knightsbridge, London – easily accessible from Chelsea, Belgravia, Mayfair and Kensington. To learn more or book an appointment, please contact our team:
- Telephone: 0207 125 0521
- Email: info@clinicbe.com
Skin Assessment
The first step is to properly understand the nature of the problem. At Clinicbe Skin of Colour, consultations include assessment of relevant medical history and a detailed examination of the skin.
Visia Skin Assessment
In addition, Clinicbe Skin of Colour have a Visia 3D Skin Analysis and imaging system which can be used to reveal unseen detail on issues such as pigmentation and deeper skin damage. This helps to determine the best approach for treatment.